Installing pfSense on a PC Engines APU2

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The APU2 came in and now I can install pfSense and share the knowledge.

First things first. The APU2 does not have a Video Out such as VGA or HDMI. It’s a headless System that uses RS-232 to run it until pfSense is installed. The options for this is to use either a DB9 Null Modem Cable if the System you’re going to connect has Serial/RS-232 or use a modern USB to Serial Cable.

For this install the Host Machine is my Desktop running Debian Linux. I am also using a USB to Serial Cable Adapter. It uses the CH341-UART chip. Keep in mind you will need a DB9 Null Modem Adapter, a simple Gender Changer Adapter isn’t going to work. for the connection software wise I am going to use GNU Screen.

We need to download pfSense. Make sure to follow the image below.

After it downloads uncompress the file and use dd (DiskDump) to write to a USB Thumb Drive. The Thumb Drive shows up as /dev/sdc but this varies system to system. If anything insert the Thumb Drive and run sudo dmesg and it should show up last and will say /dev/sd* whatever the * is is the Thumb Drive, could be sdb, sdc, sdd and so on.

For my System I issued this command.

sudo dd if=~/Desktop/pfSense-CE-memstick-serial.img of=/dev/sdc

While it was writing to the Thumb Drive I gathered the rest of the equipment together. Do not power on the APU2 just yet. When the Thumb Drive is ready plug it into the APU2. Launch GNU Screen with this command. Remember I am using a USB 2 Serial Adapter so yours might differ.

screen /dev/ttyUSB0 115200

With Screen running you can now power on the APU2. When you turn it on you should see Text pop up in the window. Select F10 to bring up the Boot Menu and select the Thumb Drive. It will take a couple of minutes to load up but it should go directly into the Installer. From there just follow the prompts and install pfSense like you would on a typical PC.

When finished installing you’ll need to reboot the APU2 and this time hit F10 again and select Manage Payload. This will bring you to a BIOS setup and just tell it to boot from whatever Media you installed pfSense onto. If you skip this part then it will only Boot into MemTest86.

After that it should work and you can then start programming it via the Web UI.

Here is a couple of shots of my APU2.

So far I am impressed. I plan installing it this Weekend and see how it goes.

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S-100 Z80 Progress

I didn’t like the first revision of the Schematic so I redid the whole thing. I came across a Z80 Trainer made by Dr. Baker and used that as the basis of the new Schematic. I also used the circuit for the VT132 Project for a Terminal VGA and USB Keyboard.

Control Panel
CPU and Clock
RAM and ROM
IO Board
Serial Terminal for Video and Keyboard

These are not final. I need to review these and make sure everything is in the right order. I also need to import the S-100 BUS.

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New CCTV System

I decided to buy the CCTV equipment. I bought a Reolink 5MP Pan Tilt Zoom Camera for the Driveway and a Reolink 5MP with Audio Turret Camera for the Lanai. My Boss let me buy a Hikvision Door Bell at cost and it was on sale from the distributor for $98.00. It’s the only one I can find that has ONVIF currently. I also have a couple of Hikvision IP Cameras I will use for Indoor use.

For now I plan to use MicroSD Cards for recording and push it to Shinobi that is running on the Home Assistant Server. For now I will use a TP-Link 5 Port PoE Switch. I really don’t see adding anymore Cameras since the placements I have chosen should cover everything. Except one area that has the A/C unit.

I am a bit worried since I heard A/C unit thefts are on arise in my area but I got that covered. I traded a A/C Tech 25ft of Coax for 25ft of outdoor rated cable used for A/C systems so I can make a dummy line that connects to the Alarm Panel so when someone cuts it the Alarm goes off, I have it programmed as a Duress so the Central Station sends out the Cops without Verification. Also used longer Tapcons to attach the unit into the Cement Pad. I also stripped out the Nut Driver portion of the Tapcons so the only way to get them out is with a Flat Head or a Cutting Wheel. Besides the Driveway Camera and Lanai Camera would catch anyone going to the side of the House anyway.

Anyway, back on topic here. I will probably run the Cabling to the Master Closet or Garage and then run a Single Line to the Living Room since the TV stand is getting full. Since the pfSense box has one more open port I can dedicate that to the CCTV and give access to Home Assistant.

I already got a friend that wants to buy my old Analog DVR and I will probably give the Ring to my Mother.

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Lost art of Cable Management – Cable Lacing

Used in Telcom, NASA and Avionics a almost lost art of Cable Management called Cable Lacing. Instead of using Zip Ties or Tape a Waxed Coated Cotton String is used for the whole length of a Wire Rack or Wire Harness/Bundle.

In my honest opinion this looks a lot cleaner and better then a hundred Zip Ties and doesn’t leave a sticky residue like Tape does. It’s also pretty darn cheap, just don’t buy the “Electronics Grade” stuff. The 1mm size that is used for Jewelry is cheaper and it is the exact same stuff. You can also use thinner stuff but you’ll have to double wrap the bundle.

I found a little Video on YouTube that covers how to do it. The man in the Video has a terrible accent but you just to need to watch rather then listen.

A few Tips I have with this Method. Have the knots closer then what I have in the example photo. If the Cabling is running flat then you can get away with knots further away but when you go into turns and twists you want the knots closer or it will look like this.

Just like anything new you will be slow and it will look like crap but with practice it will look better and you’ll get much faster.

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Fresh install Debian 10 Linux

When I install Linux I end up spending a lot of time tweaking it the way I like it. No matter the Distribution I end up doing stuff like this. Mostly because Out of the Box is for the novice user. Most end Linux users do the same thing.

I typically start with just the base install to make sure all of my hardware is in working order such as Chipset, CPU Microcode, Networking and USB. Easier to catch the issues when it’s a plain Command Line Interface. Also much easier to redo the install to Unstable if the Kernel is too old to see brand new hardware. Unstable isn’t really Unstable, it’s just newer Software that is still experimental. For a example Ubuntu uses a mixture of Unstable and LTR (Long Term Release).

When partitioning I keep things simple and use a single Partition for everything. Now if I am doing this to a system that has Multiple Hard Drives I’ll move things around such as putting the /home directory onto a different drive. Back in the day I use to toss in a old drive just to be used for SWAP but these days I see no performance gains. A EXT4 Partition is just find and no need to go into the world of ZFS and GPT since ZFS eats RAM and GPT will bite you in the ass in the end.

After I verify everything is working I’ll edit the APT sources file and add the contrib and non-free entries, update the mirrors and upgrade. Install Xorg and whatever Window Manager I want. Currently I am giving KDE Plasma a spin and it has a few nice features but I like using the Awesome WM.

Before anything else I once again verify my Video and Audio is working correctly. I’ll run the glxgears program or just look at the OpenGL Information. To test Audio I’ll just load something up in YouTube, a few times in the past the Audio would work fine within the Window Manager but YouTube, Steam and VLC would be deaf. So if YouTube works then there shouldn’t be issues with anything else.

Now I can start adding my custom tweaks and such.

I add my user to the sudoers file and make sure the hostname for the system is final. Also install ntp if Xorg’s install didn’t include it.

su
apt install binutiles sudo ntp ufw fish vlc
nano /etc/sudoers


under root’s entry add
[username] ALL=(ALL:ALL) ALL
Save and exit.

exit

I start by changing the Command Line Shell. Debian uses a modified version of BASH called DASH. Works alright but after you start playing with other types of Shells you end up staying away from it. I use to use Zsh but I converted to FISH. After installing fish I then issue chsh -s /usr/bin/fish then launch it. From there I go into ~/.config/fish and edit the config.fish file and add my alias entries.

alias ls="ls -lahp"
alias dir="ls -lahp"
alias shutdown="sudo shutdown now"
alias reboot="sudo reboot"
alias update="sudo apt update"
alias upgrade="sudo apt upgrade"
alias purge="sudo apt autoremove"
alias edit="nano"
alias G="grep"
alias S="sudo"

After tweaking commands to my liking I’ll add more software I attend to use such as Htop, Bleachbit, Guake, and KDE Connect.

Over time I end up installing neofetch, screen, Arduino IDE, Sublime Text and GCC, Firefox and vBox.

Once in a blue moon I’ll screw up and spend a good few hours fixing it or just end up reinstalling everything.

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Limit Unwanted Network Connections

I’m slowly putting together a Network Administration suite for the Raspberry Pi. Came across a little jewel called Evil Limiter. It’s a Python 3 Script that can do a ARP scan of a Network and give you a IP Address on the Network that you know shouldn’t be there or you have a User sucking up too much Bandwidth. So instead of Deauthing the user you can Throttle or even Block the User. For a example you can Limit a User to 100Kbit/sec or even totally block them.

This could be handy for enforcing say the Kids Internet usage during the Spring/Summer Break or even at work when Steve should be working on a report but is too busy watching Netflix or YouTube.

Now this tool is considered a DoS (Denial of Service) Attack so be careful how you use it and deploy it.

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Building a Z80 Computer

Every hardcore Electronics Engineer and Computer Nerd has a bucket list and there is a Homebrew Retro Computer on that list. I could cheat and buy a RC2014 kit but building it from total scratch is even better.

Now you just don’t order/buy/find the parts and slap it all together. You have to study up on the subject. There is a PDF floating around called “Build your own Z80 Computer” by Steve Ciarcia. Then you have Grant Searle’s Website that is loaded with tons of Schematics and ideas for a minimal chip count Z80 running BASIC and CP/M.

To start off the build I am going to build a curd version of the Zeta256 and branch off of that by adding memory, UART, ROM and so forth.

Stuff going on in the Garage

Docking Station
If you have an older Dell Laptop such as I have, the e6420 series and you prefer to use a Desktop then I would definitely go for the Docking Station.

I can’t find my DisplayPort to HDMI Adapters at the moment so I have my 40inch TV plugged into the HDMI Port o the Laptop but I have my Mechanical Keyboard and Trackball connected via USB to the Docking Station.

Works out of the box with no additional drivers. It didn’t see my Mouse and Keyboard in the EFI/BIOS but after Windows loaded it found it.

Now I need to install Linux back on the Laptop and I can be happy once more.

Print Server
Since I got the Raspberry Pi Zero W running CUPs I need to figure out on Device/Cable Management. I current have a 15ft USB-B cable connected to the printer and Pi. No reason for it and I need to find a shorter one. I want to find a way to Power the Pi with out taking up an additional Outlet. Since I plan to have two Printers connected I need to find a USB Hub that will work.
Another thing I need to add to the Pi is Samba so I can have a little File Server to host the Drivers for the Printers. This way when a Family member comes up to me asking to setup the Printer I don’t have to search around Canon’s website for the Drivers.

HP 16500C Fan Upgrade
The second Fan came in and I plan to swap out the crappy fans with these nice Noctua Fans.

Flood Sensor debacle
After reviewing the PCB Gerber files I really did screw things up. I need to find a better Schematic/PCB design software. I’m leaning towards KiCAD

Home Server
Darn thing died on me. I thought it had a 500watt Power Supply in it but it had a 300watt. So I’ll either pull the Power Supply from my old Desktop or buy a new one. I tested the system with a 250watt Power Supply with the bare minimum hardware and it runs fine. It’s more so of the Drives adding the extra load that screws thing up. With the math I need around 400watts.

My Tasmota Devices and Updates
A YouTuber called DigiblurDIY posted a video about using MQTT to publish messages to make Tasmota driven devices do their over the air firmware updates so I don’t have to access each one to apply a firmware update. It can also be used as an automation in Home Assistant to update the Devices. I wish I thought of that, it’s so simple. When I deploy it I will use a script rather then an automation so when an updated firmware is released I can get a chance to read up the Release notes and then I can just hit a button and update rather then having it do it automatically and wake up to no working lights.

Flood Sensor PCBs don’t work

I built up one and found a bunch of issues. The battery is backwards. It draws 4 amps meaning there is a short somewhere.

Come to find out the footprint I used for the HT7333 Regulator is wrong. The middle pin is VIN but on the PCB it’s GND. Also R5 is shorting out with R3.

So these PCBs are totally useless.

This was my first SMD build and I failed big time.

Printer Server with a Raspberry Pi

I have two Printers, a cheap Canon Pixma and a old Brother laser printer. Until recently I had the Canon Printer on my my desktop in the Garage and if say my wife needed something printed she emailed it to me. The laser printer needs more toner and is currently not hooked up.

I decided to dedicate a Raspberry Pi Zero W to the task as a Printer Server. It’s a headless system with CUPs installed and the printer is setup with sharing.

Setting up the Pi
This is straight forward. Create a Raspberry Pi OS Lite image onto an SD Card and add into the boot directory a blank file called ssh and another file called wpa_supplicant.conf and edit the file to fit your WiFi settings.

ctrl_interface=DIR=/var/run/wpa_supplicant GROUP=netdev
country=us
update_config=1

network={
 ssid="wifi ssid"
 psk="wifi password"
}

Boot up the Pi and you can use Fing or your Router and find out what IP the Pi has and log in via SSH. Change the default pi user password via the passwd command. run the raspi-config program and setup the localization options and change the host name to Printer. Exit and reboot then update the system with apt as usual.

We need to change some settings around in the /etc/dhcpd.conf file so we can get a static IP Address. You will also want to reserve the IP address in your Router as well.

interface wlan0
static ip_address=192.168.0.99/24
static routers=192.168.0.1
static domain_name_servers=192.168.0.1

We are using the wlan0 interface for the WiFi and the Static IP you see in bold has to be changed to the IP you want to use and the other two lines in bold change to the Router’s IP Address. Save and exit.

Cups is easy, just do sudo apt install cups -y and this will install CUPs onto the Pi. When it’s complete we need to add admin permissions to the pi user and make it accessible over the LAN

sudo usermod -a -G lpadmin pi
sudo cupsctl --remote-any

Go ahead and hook up the Printer then reboot the Pi once more. After it reboots open a web browser and enter the IP address of the Pi and direct the port to 631

http://192.168.0.100:631

login with the pi user if needed and select add/manage printer and select your Printer. Accept the defaults and make sure to select share printer when you see it. Print a test page and cross your fingers. Typically the defaults work just fine.

Adding a printer to a Windows Machine
Follow this guide

For Debian Linux running KDE
Open Print Settings. Hit the Unlock button and put in the Root password. Click on +Add then type in the URL for the printer.
For a example my printer URL is
http://192.168.0.100:631/printers/Canon_Pixma_MG2500
Then search for the driver for the printer then wah-la!

Know what? You can even adapt it into Home Assistant as well with the IPP Integration. Keep track of Ink and who is printing. Could also setup an automation to print out logs and such.

With an android phone you can install the Android CUPs Print app and add the printer.

Flood Sensor PCBs are in

THESE PCBS DO NOT WORK
I’m leaving this post here as a reminder.

The wait is over and the PCBs showed up. I tested continuity and no shorts or broken connections.

Schematic

If you would like the Gerber files for the PCB just PM me your email and i’ll gladly send it to you.

This is the last time I use EasyEDA. When I went to pull up the Schematic and Gerber files all of my projects ended up in the recycle bin and half of them are missing.

Anyway, I will solder up a board and try it out.

Main Desktop acting weird – Not gonna have it

Since my main Desktop is acting weird and I don’t want to dump money into it on guessing what is wrong I decided to just use my Dell Latitude e6420 as my main system. I was surfing around eBay and saw Docking Stations for the Laptop at a dirt cheap price. However they didn’t come with the Power Adapter. I managed to find one with a power adapter for 35 bucks so I ordered it.

I went with the Docking Station because it will be easy to grab the system for when I am on the go and also has the ability to have dual video via Display Port of DVI. I have a few Display Port to HDMI adapters so that will be neat.

The Laptop has been upgraded a bit since I bought it a couple of years ago. I removed the Optical drive and put in another SSD with a caddie to replace the Optical drive. Also for giggles I tossed in a second WiFi Mini PCI-e card. The first upgrade I did was max out the RAM to 16GB. Dell claims it can only use up to 8GB but a lot of people on the Dell Community Forums confirmed Corsair CMSX8GX3M1A1600C10 16GB will work.

I am debating to swap out the CPU from an i5 to a i7 2760QM that is Quad Core at 3.3GHz. I was also looking into the GPU since there was a Nvidia NVS 4200M but it’s integrated and would require a whole different motherboard so I am holding off on that one.
I might also get a USB 3.0 Express card. If the system had more room for the PCI-e slots I would see about using a Mini PCI-e to M.2 adapter.

I need to reinstall Linux on the Laptop. When I was using it for work I was dual booting Windows 10 and Debian with it. So now I don’t need Windows 10 on it and I can go back fully Linux. When I was attempting to use Windows 10 I tried using WLS2 with Debian and I didn’t like it. Felt too much like CYGWIN that never worked right.

HP 16500C Repairs – Quest for Fans

So I ordered the Noctua Fan and it showed up yesterday. I hooked it up to my Bench Power Supply and it runs super quite and pushes a lot of air. Not enough to satisfy for a single Fan for the HP 16500C but since I know the fan should work fine for it I ordered another one.

Since the Noctua Fan kits comes with a bunch of stuff such as rubber isolators and cable extensions I can build a wire harness for the Fans make it somewhat stock looking. When I installed the other Fans I used Beanies to fasten the cabling together and I honestly didn’t like it.

Camera DVR Storage

I want to talk about DVR Storage for CCTV Systems.

A DVR/NVR uses a special type of hard drive that is meant for 24/7 use and constantly writes to it. It also has features to access playback while still recording in the background. Western Digital calls these their Purple Series and Seagate SkyHawk series.

You never want to use a typical Desktop hard drive in a DVR/NVR or any other series really other then the two mentioned. Now Seagate has a white label drive that just says Video 3.5 HDD and those are fine to use as well. However if you plan to use a NAS such as a Synology as an NVR then you’ll need to use drives used for CCTV use.

I get asked this all the time at work after I install a Camera System “How many days does it record?” and a lot of times people get mad at my answer, probably because I can do the math correctly and I know my hardware. But for this post I’ll direct it to a record time calculator.

Keep in mind even if you record only Motion the math uses Continuous recording. Motion Recording is Continuously recording but when it doesn’t see a Pixel change or whatever trigger for it to “record” it will dump that video. What also determines the record time is how many Cameras, their Frames Per-Second, Resolution and Compression type.

A lot of the cheap kits you buy that come with the Cameras, Recorder and Cabling then chances are you have a 1TB drive and can handle a H.264 compression type.
For a example a 4 Channel system with a 1TB drive four 2MP 1080p Cameras with H.264 compression with 24/7 at 15 frames per-second you’ll get 15 days. How ever you might get 25 days with it on Motion if the Cameras have lite traffic.

I personally built my Camera System to my taste. For a example I used four IP Cameras and used different cameras for different locations for the optimum use for the location and used SD Cards until I was able to find a NVR that worked for me. The NVR didn’t come with a drive so I was able to save a few bucks so I could put it towards a Western Digital Purple series 8TB drive. My Cameras and NVR use the newer H.265 Compression so the video is more compressed and still able to have 20 Frames Per-Second at high quality and get about 80 days of record time. I probably spent about two hundred more then a eight channel kit would of cost but I got a better bang for my buck.

The major thing to understand is when the drive fills up it overwrites. It doesn’t wipe the whole drive but it overwrites by day. With an example I will use easy numbers. Say each month is 30 days and the DVR/NVR records for 30 days and the system started recording March 1st. 30 days later is April 1st the system will write over the March 1st entry. However March 2nd is still there until April 2nd then that gets overwritten. and it continues on through out the month.

Another thing to remember most CCTV Systems that are cloud based doesn’t store the video on the cloud. The “Cloud” part is letting you remotely connect to the Camera System to view and playback video from a Phone, Tablet or Computer without having to be a Network guru poking holes into a firewall. Now some consumer Cameras have Cloud storage but they only hold the video for a certain number of days and you have to pay a monthly fee. However some semi professional grade systems will let you sync it to a OneDrive or Google Drive account but you’ll be paying out the butt monthly for that.
Another option is you can add a NAS to the system and the DVR/NVR can upload to the NAS via FTP. However you’ll want CCTV grade drives in your NAS. You could use the Seagate Ironwolf series for the NAS but I don’t think they can keep up with the demand. I had a customer that got me to link his NVR to his NAS and with in a year it wore out the drives he had in it. I have no idea what kind of drives he had in there.

How can I get more record time with my current system?
Do a firmware update, could possibly add more features if the system isn’t too old. Some manufactures such as Dahua added the H.265 compression to their older NVRs that are still in production. If your System isn’t that old maybe a year or so you can see if it has the option to enable H.265. Another option is to turn off unused channels. So if you have a eight channel System and only have six Cameras you can either turn off those two channels or set them to at least Motion. Change the Frames Per-Second to something lower. I typically set the Main Stream to 12FPS and the Sub Stream to 10FPS with budget systems. Put the Cameras on Motion recording or some sort of smart analytics. I would recommend to see if the drive can be swapped out to something bigger but currently since Chia Coin that IPO has been depleting the Hard Drive market and has put Hard Drives on back order and raised the prices to double.

If your current system is five years or older I would honestly upgrade and look for options such as these.

  • IP Based
  • H.265
  • If you want four Cameras then get a eight channel (comes with a bigger drive)
  • 1080p Resolution

You’re looking on the list and probably going “what??!?” Let me explain. Analog is dead, it’s hard to find Analog equipment on the consumer market these days and everything is going IP. H.265 is the new video compression for higher resolution cameras. If you only want four Cameras you’ll probably want more in the future and more channels comes with bigger drives typically so with the four cameras you’ll get more record time out of the box. 4K video is nice and all but in all honesty it’s not much from 1080p and for typical residential applications 1080p is just fine. From my experience most Camera kits that come with 4K cameras the NVR has a typical 1TB drive and even with H.265 you’ll get a week of record time VS 1080p you’ll get 28 – 29 days. If you really want more Resolution then go for 3MP Cameras.

After all the whole point of a Camera system is to catch something devious going on from either a peeping tom or the neighbor’s dog taking a dump on the front lawn. When something happens you want to pull that Video ASAP. Don’t wait more then a week to do it because Murphy’s Law will come knocking on the door. I’ve told customers to unplug their system if it will take me a week to longer to get there. Had one guy wait a whole two months to contact office to pull video from some drunk driver decided to trench the front yard with a car. That guy got a 95 dollar service for me to tell him, “uhh, sorry sir but the playback only goes back 15 days, that will be 95 dollars”. We didn’t know it happened two months ago until I got there.

Proper Home Server with old consumer PC

I am going to slap together a PC from random parts I have on hand and have it work as my Home Server. Granted I have the Dell R410 but that thing has been acting weird and it’s too loud.

I am going to use the PC that I used to attempt to do Chia Mining with. I was late to the game of Chia mining so I gave up on it.

A lot of people would toss on either Proxmox or Unraid Server but I’m different and I want to run software that is needed and don’t have a hundred of the same copies of software taking up space.

Debian will be the Linux of choice since I know it very well. I plan to install OpenMediaVault for my NAS use so I can have a SMB, NFS and AoE shares. Not to mention FTP to cover everything else.
Run KVM for Home Assistant. I plan to have two of these running, one for a backup for the house and the other as a test bench.
Cups Print server, have two printers and I am tired of having to print everything for the family so I need to make my USB based printers work on the LAN.
A PXE boot environment so I can boot ISO images over the LAN so I don’t have to keep track of USB Thumb Drives.
Dedicated MySQL Server, almost every system I have has a SQL server and having a single server will free up resources on the other machines.
Ubiquiti Controller for my Uni-Fi equipment.
VaultWarden (use to be Bitwarden_rs).
Integrate the thing into Home Assistant to control the ON/OFF states, CPU Temps and such.

Hardware wise I am going to toss in two 1Gb NICs and do a bond/lag to get 2Gb, my pfSense Box and TP-Link Switch has Lag so I can bond them. The system has 12GB of RAM and the CPU should be alright. I have enough room for six SATA drives so I can load it up with Hard Drives and do a RAID-0 configuration.

Main Desktop is acting weird

Out of nowhere I my main Desktop has been flaking out. It locks up or reboots randomly. Sometimes I get a Kernel Error and moments later it reboots or the system just freezes up and if Audio is playing it turns into a broken record.

The only Error I see when the system boots is the stupid thing about ECC memory and needs to be turn on in the BIOS but there is no option in the BIOS for ECC and I am not using ECC memory in the system. There are BIOS/EFI updates for my motherboard but for some reason if I update it I will have to upgrade the CPU because the later updates doesn’t have the microcode for the AMD A12 CPU in it.

I believe I had some bad RAM in the system. I don’t have anymore DDR4 RAM to test this theory and I honestly don’t want to dump money into it and find out it’s something else.

I might toss in a different drive and run Windows on it and see if it freaks out still and see what kind of errors Windows will toss out. For all I know it’s a Kernel update in Linux that screwed up things.

DIY LCD Dumb Terminal – Finished

So I finished it and works great.

Got the Ethernet Module working and with the speed of the Pi I can get around 50Mbps and that is totaly fine for Text based command line use.

I had to change up the Font size to 12×20 so I could see the test on the screen, at the default setting it’s a little blury with a NTSC Composite signal. I did that by editing a file in nano.

sudo nano /etc/default/console-setup

# Look for these two lines and enter what is in bold.
FONTFACE="Terminus"
FONTSIZE="10x20"

I found my Logitech K400 Keyboard/track pad and changed the Micro USB to a standard USB-A port and plugged in the Keyboard’s RF Module.

As for the case for the whole thing I am working on mounting it to the Rack. I got a 4U cover that I am planning to cut out a opening for the LCD and also reuse the LCD mount from the case so I can tilt the screen up or down. I am debating to add a hinge and a a little fold out table for a Keyboard tray. Then again I could cut out a groove and have a slot to have the Keyboard sit in when not in use.